Posts Tagged ‘preservation’
‘Lucy Repainted’
Posted by Aaron Donohoe | Filed under Restorations
Above: For a good finish, the bodywork must be 100% perfect/smooth. This means filling in inevitable dents, scratches, stone chips, and other damage with such fillers like Isopon. Luckily, very little work was required, a quick skim over rough patches, and the filling in of small panel damage was all that was required - Luckily!
Above: The webmaster can be seen getting his hands dirty from time to time, seen here sanding imperfections from the rear nearside wheelarch - when sanding use coarse pads to begin with and gradually increase the grain to a finer texture.
Above: Looking worse for wear, Lucy was backed into one of our workshops (featured in her Head Gasket replacement), and the more intense bodywork was attended to - following this, the entire body was wiped down using a surface cleanser before being ‘masked up’ for painting to begin the following morning.
Above: All allies were called in to aid in ‘masking up’, pictured (L-R) Karl Roche (Vehicle Manager), Aaron Donohoe (Operations Manager) and Patrick Donohoe (Transport Consultant).
Above: Alan Donohoe, who kindly donated his time and expertise to paint ‘Lucy’ is pictured applying a ‘Tack Coat’ to the nearside. Alan has been professionally respraying coaches, buses, cars and trucks for over 20 years, and it was an honor to have him work on our vehicle and to donate his time to the cause. The finish Alan applied exceeded our expectations!
Above: Waiting for the second coat (of four) to dry, you can see that at this point the roof hasn’t yet been painted. The roof is generally given a more liberal coat of paint, which was given shortly before the commencement of coat three. Pictured is our vehicle manager Karl Roche inspecting the paint finish!
Above: Once the paint had cured, we couldn’t resist removing the ‘masking’, and pulling her out of the workshop, to check the paintwork in the sun - the photo doesn’t do it justice, but she was has a mirror finish - a credit to Alan who did a superb job of her.
Above: Frontal view, with all auxillary parts (grill, dest. glass, head light surrounds etc…) removed. The rubber trim had been refitted by the time of this photo, but the rock guards located below the lockers haven’t been painted, due to the fact they have to be straightened and will be painted black!
We’d like to take the opportunity to thank the following people who without their input the project wouldn’t have been able to progress to this stage:
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Mick & Johnny Fortune
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Alan & Paddy Donohoe
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Willie & Paddy Doyle
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Stephen Lynch
‘Lucy’ Head Gasket Replacement
Posted by Aaron Donohoe | Filed under Reports, Restorations
Over the course of two days, Stephen Payne and Aaron Donohoe tackled the task of replacing the cylinder head gasket on the left cylinder head of our latest acquisition - 79 MN 522. Below is an illustrated report of the repair. It should have normally taken a day to remove the cylinder head, replace head gasket, refit cylinder head and manifolds - it took us two days due to stubborn, inaccessible bolts, studs and nuts, as well as encountering difficulties removing the head.
Checklist:
- Workshop - it wouldn’t be advisable to tackle this in the open, a workshop would be best, for convenience more so then anything!
- Tools - Good quality, heavy duty tools, inc. a Torque wrench, mallet, multiple ring, adjustable, open, angle and ratchet spanners, sockets, and a rubber mallet are all essential.
- Lighting - Inspection lights, and background work lighting.
- Trolley Jacks - Leopards have their engine mounted upside down, on its side, so the cylinder head is located on the right hand side of the bus. Trolley jacks come in handy for bracing the head lightly when removing and for making it 10x easier when refitting.
- Workbench - You need somewhere flat, clean and secure to put the cylinder head, head bolts, exhaust, air and water manifolds.
- Assistance - You can’t feasibly do a Leopard head gasket by yourself. It makes sense to have another person to help reduce the work load.
- Patience - It’s a long job, you’ve to drain the cooling system, remove exhaust, air and water manifolds, remove the air filter and housing, cylinder head cover, rocker shaft, push rods, inlet pipes, injectors, and it’s a task getting the cylinder head itself off!
We backed 79 MN 522 into Workshop one, leaving enough clearance on the offside to get adequate access and workspace on that side. Workshop one is big enough to fit our longest coach 355 SZB (12m) comfortably, and a double decker at a squeeze. Workshop two will be double the size of Workshop one, once complete.
To get access to the cylinder head, to the stage where it’s ready to be removed, you must remove ancillary parts such as Air Manifold, Exhaust Manifold, Water Manifold - with Thermostat, Air Filter, and disconnect all corresponding hoses.
Firstly drain the cooling system, once done remove/disconnect hoses in relation to the parts that have to be removed. Now start by removing the water manifold - this is the first manifold, it comes in two connection parts, one contains the thermostat. Both sections are joined by a copper sealing ring (cause of many water leaks on 0.680 engines). Once removed, store carefully and keep gaskets and bolts safe!
Next remove the exhaust manifold. We encountered a problem, the nuts had melted to the manifold, luckily on the side we didn’t need to remove. We have a replacement part, so to save time we cut the manifold in half from the joining ring - which was also seized into place. Again keep the gaskets, nuts and bolts safe. The air manifold is the one at the rear, it came off without a problem, although it did crack at one of the flanges - since repaired.
Now you can remove the Cylinder head cover. It’s advisable to keep the bolts in situe once removed. As they’re different sizes, it makes it easier on yourself if they’re in the correct order when it comes to reassembly. You can now proceed to remove the fuel delivery pipes, and clamps - cover the outlet pipes, disconnect leak-off pipes and remove the injectors (3). Now remove the Rocker shaft with care, untighten bolts evenly, and lift assembly clear of it’s locating studs. Remove the Push rods, and place in order of removal. Remove cylinder head nuts in reverse order (a manual/diagram comes in handy at this stage), and place in order of removal.
Ensure all Cylinder head bolts are removed, and tap the cylinder head to break the seal. We now encountered a problem, that the cylinder head wouldn’t budge! We tried manually removing it, and bracing it with a jack and trying to pull it clear. We located two unused holes above an below two of the cylinder head locating studs - one either side, and we manufactured two 8mm plates to go over the studs. Two holes were drilled in each place to locate and tighten nuts onto. This method slowly pulled the cylinder head off.
For some reason this method of removing the head wasn’t mentioned in the manual. It was under the advice of Willy Doyle, who had previously worked on such engines, that the recommendation of the two plates came from.
With the cylinder head removed, a well deserved rest was in order. Illustrated is the stripped side, and the complete side with rocker shaft and injectors still in situe.
The cylinder head after removal. Yet to be cleaned and prepared for refitting. Mr KT Lawless, was kind enough to resurface the face of the head for us.
A new Leyland 0.680 Head Gasket.
The old Head Gasket.
Once the Head Gasket had been put into place, and cylinder head cleaned and prepared, it can now be located and fitted. We used a trolley jack to brace it. It slid right on without fault.
Aaron Donohoe locating the cylinder head. Cable ties were used to keep the fuel delivery pipes out of the way whilst fitting the cylinder head.
Now once the cylinder head is located, you can now torque the head bolts, refit the injectors, push rods, rocker shaft, delivery and inlet pipes, cylinder head cover, and manifolds. Once complete, check your work, refill cooling system - check for leaking, check oil levels, and refit air filter. Start the engine (it will take approx. 5-8 minutes to start), and leave to idle for 45-60 minutes. Do futher checks for leakage, and refill water levels.
Job Done!
New Acquisition - 79 MN 522
Posted by Aaron Donohoe | Filed under Acquisitions
Although the photo doesn’t do it justice, our latest aquisition 79 MN 522 is a superb example of a Supreme IV. Formely owned by Wallace Arnold, it ended its service career with St. Kevin’s - Glendalough. It has now been acquired by the Motor Vehicle Preservation Society of Ireland for futher use. After a complete mechanical and structural inspection, it has been found it requires little more than a good clean and polish. Externally it requires one panel to be repaired, and internally requires nothing - as can been seen from the below photo.
